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Ah, kids. I love em. They bring me more joy then anything else.
But sometimes, they make me go :rant :hide :help :cry :shake :eyeroll :censored
The younger boys (almost 5 and almost 3) were doing more then playing out back the other day, they managed to get the garden gate open and wreak total havok. Most of the plants stomped on, pulled up or otherwise mutilated. It wasn’t malicious, they didn’t have it out for me or my garden, they wanted to help.
So while I can’t be really mad at them, I’m very down and frustrated because I don’t have the time to go fix the destruction, let alone get out there and plant all the other stuff I should have had done 3 weeks ago.
So, I’m kind of giving up on the garden. This isn’t my year for being a good gardener. I’ll try to keep alive what’s left, but the semi-grand-plans I had? Not gonna happen.
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/calendar/#may
- Leafrolling worms will affect apples and blueberries. Prune off affected leaves and place pheromone traps or spray with approved pesticides.
- Trap moles and gophers as new mounds appear.
- Control spittle bugs and aphids in strawberries and ornamentals, if present; wash off or use insecticidal soap as a contact spray. Follow label directions.
- Fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas; remove spent blossoms.
- Plant chrysanthemums for fall color.
- Plant dahlias, gladioli, and tuberous begonias in mid-May.
- Control cabbage worms in cabbage and cauliflower, 12-spotted cucumber beetle in beans and lettuce, maggot in radishes. Control can involve hand removal, placing barrier screen over newly planted rows, or spraying or dusting with appropriate materials.
- Spray cherries, plums, peaches, and apricots for brown rot blossom blight, if necessary.
- Control aphids with insecticidal soap, a hard spray of water, or hand removal; by promoting natural predators; or by using approved insecticides labeled for the problem plant.
- Tiny holes in foliage and shiny, black beetles on tomato, beets, radishes, and potato indicate flea beetle attack. Treat with Neem, rotenone, Bt, or use nematodes for larvae. Follow label directions.
- Fertilize roses and control rose diseases such as mildew with a registered fungicide. When selecting new roses, choose plants labeled for resistance to diseases.
- Prevent root maggots when planting cabbage family, onions, and carrots, by covering with row covers or screens, or by applying appropriate pesticides.
- Control slugs with bait or traps and by removing or mowing vegetation near garden plots.
- Place pheromone traps in apple trees to detect presence of codling moth. Plan a control program of sprays, baits, or predators when moths are found.
- Monitor broadleaf evergreens for root weevils. Look for notches chewed on new leaves. Mark plants to teat with parasitic nematodes in autumn when soil temperatures are still above 55°F.
- Plant these vegetables (dates vary locally; check with local gardeners):
Oregon coast: snap beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cantaloupes, pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, parsnips, peppers, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, sweet corn, tomatoes.
Western Oregon: mid-May, transplant tomato and pepper seedlings.
Western valleys, Portland, Roseburg, Medford: snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, cantaloupes, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, eggplant, kale, peppers, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, watermelon.
Lower elevations, eastern Oregon (dates vary widely): snap and lima beans, beets, celery, sweet corn, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, kohlrabi, onions, parsley, parsnips, peppers, white potatoes, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, tomatoes.
High elevations, central and eastern Oregon: prepare garden soil for spring planting.
Central Oregon and higher elevations of eastern Oregon: early May-onions; mid-May to late May-beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chives, endive, spinach; mid-May to early June-dill, kale, kohlrabi, parsley, parsnips, potatoes; late May to early June-snap beans, sweet corn, cucumbers, peppers, pumpkins, summer squash, tomatoes.
Columbia and Snake River valleys, Ontario: cantaloupes, dill, eggplant, kale, okra, peppers, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, watermelon.
After I posted about my mystery tree and couldn’t figure it out, I decided to wait and see what the tree did. It got leaves and started growing helicopters :lol It’s what my family calls the seed-wings:

Because when they are big and dry, you can throw them in the air and they twirl down like a helicopter.
I was able to figure out it’s a Maple, and according to Google, it’s a BigLeaf, or Oregon Maple.
Now to figure out what the other 2 trees are!
DoubleDanger sent this link through Twitter. It looks like Monsanto’s efforts are rewarding them in a similar manner to overuse of antibiotics creating superbugs.
The gospel of high-tech genetically modified (GM) crops is not sounding quite so sweet in the land of the converted. A new pest, the evil pigweed, is hitting headlines and chomping its way across Sun Belt states, threatening to transform cotton and soybean plots into weed battlefields.
In late 2004, “superweeds” that resisted Monsanto’s iconic “Roundup” herbicide, popped up in GM crops in the county of Macon, Georgia. Monsanto, the US multinational biotech corporation, is the world’s leading producer of Roundup, as well as genetically engineered seeds. Company figures show that nine out of 10 US farmers produce Roundup Ready seeds for their soybean crops.
Superweeds have since alarmingly appeared in other parts of Georgia, as well as South Carolina, North Carolina, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky and Missouri, according to media reports. Roundup contains the active ingredient glyphosate, which is the most used herbicide in the USA.
How has this happened? Farmers over-relied on Monsanto’s revolutionary and controversial combination of a single “round up” herbicide and a high-tech seed with a built-in resistance to glyphosate, scientists say.
(read more)
Please see the “How to avoid Monsanto” page to the right!
So I haven’t done, uh, anything in the garden, really since I last posted. But things are still happening.
We have 6 potatoes already coming up, I was very surprised to see them already.
Lots and lots of peas and I think this weekend we’ll get the trellis up.
The green beans have all made an appearance and are looking great.
I seriously overplanted lettuce and need to thin like 3/4 of them. Oops.
The onions don’t look great but I think they will be ok.
We’re definitely past the last freeze, it hasn’t dropped below 34 in weeks.
I badly need to get the herbs planted.
Indoors, my tomatoes, celery, green peppers, chives, thyme, and basil are still alive, but not growing nearly as well as they should be.
I don’t think this year’s garden will be as nice as last year’s, I just can’t find the time! But I’m definitely not giving up. My main plan for the next week or so is to get everything that needs to be, planted, and weed. They are taking over, really bad!
Transplanting and I are not best of friends. I’m bad about properly hardening off. I can tell anyone how to do it, but when it comes down to it myself, I forget. Both to put them outside, and to remember to bring them in at the proper time for that day.
I had a mini-stroke when I was pregnant with my 3rd, I’ll blame that.
So the lettuce did not transplant well, it all died and I planted new, and it’s coming up well. The cabbage is not thrilled with being transplanted, but it is still hanging on. The tomatoes, still inside, are sunburned, but still growing. :lol
In the garden, besides the lettuce, I’ve also got peas, almost all germinated and it’ll be time to thin and get the trellis up very soon. A couple green beans have also popped up. Also, the weeds are doing excellent. It’s already time to get out and weed. Also on the to do list is find the Earth Juice and give everything a good feeding, and someday get the herbs out there.
How’s everyone’s gardening going?
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